This
dramatic peak in British Columbia's Selkirk Mountains has no easy way up.
We
climbed it by the classic Northwest Ridge on August 15-17th, 2007
This
is the view of the mountain from the highway.
The route is on the
left skyline.
A
four hour hike took us to a beautiful high meadow,
base camp for the climb.
View
of the upper mountain from base camp.
The
route is on the left skyline, starting at the notch at the extreme left.
Looking
up from the col (notch), where we arrived just after sunrise.
We
roped up here, although we used more running belays than fixed anchors.
Rest
break three quarters of the way up the ridge.
Looking
down at Rogers Pass and the trans Canada highway.
View
south from Mount Sir Donald.
Upper
portion of rock climb, where the steepness increased
and
belayed rock climbing was required.
View
down from near summit, showing us climbing
(near center of image).
Dave
Scott, mountain guide and Greg Frux at summit.
Happy
to be at the top!
This
was the pleasant part of the descent.
Higher
up we downclimbed loose scree fields with huge exposure.
The
descent included 8 rappels (six on this face) from fixed anchors.
It
was rapid and would have been safe, except for rockfall from climbers above. Several
climbers high up on the
ridge in this image give a sense of scale.
Pika
at base camp.
We
wrapped up a perfect climb,
by spending a second night at base camp.